Introducción al Folklore Dominicano

Tuesday, March 8th, 2005 (PUCMM, Santiago, Dominican Republic):

It's 10AM and I'm in my first class of the day: Introducción al Folklore Dominicano (Introduction to Dominican Folklore); I'm slouched in my desk, leaning against the wall, trying to decide on whom to concentrate: My professor--whom I've determined cares less about actually presenting the material and more about telling elicit stories (read: anecdotes) about el sexo anál--or the class next door--trying to brush-up on my Spanish anyway I can. Not so subtly, my professor pauses his story and begins to tell us about the impending Carnival celebrations happening all over the Dominican Republic. The word "carnival" gets everyone's attention, most of them excited about visiting La Vega next week--the site of the largest Carnival celebration on the island. Yet to most of our surprise, his story is not of La Vega, but of San Pedro de Macorís (a small town outside of the capital, Santo Domingo). It's also the site of a very special celebration/ceremony, but begins at the end of Carnival. Annually near San Pedro de Macorís, hordes of workers from the sugar cane refineries march through the town (batey) dressed in bright garb, singing, dancing and playing instruments not in the Christian tradition of recognition of the upcoming Lentil season, but rather in celebration of African spirits and deities. See http://www.melassa.org/gallery-gaga.htm. My professor tells us that these people are practitioners of Vodu dominicano, most are either migrants or descendants from Haiti, and this celebration is called gagá. Gagá. Gagá. That word stuck in my head. I was fascinated by this tradition, which seemed undoubtedly African, being practiced in a country notorious for suppressing its African roots. Disappointed that I wouldn't be able to visit San Pedro de Macorís anytime soon, I asked my professor about this mysterious celebration. He reminded me that next month, my study abroad program would be visiting a batey similar to the one in San Pedro de Macorís. While our trip would not coincide with the dates when gagá is traditionally celebrated, I would be able to see what life was like on a batey.
Interestingly enough, the class next door that almost stole my attention was another section of Relaciones Dominico-Haitiano (Dominican-Haitian Relations). Equally interested in that class, it became my habit throughout the semester to ask my fellow study abroad program participants about topics addressed in the class. That day, the topic of discussion was bateyes, the multitude of Haitian immigrants living there and myths Dominicans hold about Haitians. Nevertheless, I was excited to get the opportunity to visit a batey.